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How to Prepare Artwork for DTG Printing

Most print quality problems are file problems. If you learn how to prepare artwork for DTG printing properly once, you will never wonder why a design looked sharp on your screen and soft on the shirt. This is the complete file prep guide: resolution at actual print size, file format, color mode, how white behaves on fabric, what breaks on small detail, and a pre flight checklist you can run in two minutes before every upload.

Resolution: 300 DPI at actual print size

The single most misunderstood rule in file prep is that DPI is meaningless without a size attached to it. DPI stands for dots per inch, so 300 DPI only tells you the density of detail, not how much detail exists.

Here is the trap. A file that is 300 DPI at 2 inches wide is 600 pixels across. If you print that graphic at 12 inches wide, those same 600 pixels get stretched over 12 inches, which is 50 DPI. It will print blurry with visibly soft edges, and no setting on the printer can recover detail that was never in the file.

So the rule to internalize: 300 DPI measured at the size the graphic will actually be printed. Do the multiplication in pixels and you can never get it wrong.

  • Full front graphic, 12 inches wide: 3600 pixels wide
  • Full front graphic at maximum area, 12" x 16": 3600 x 4800 pixels
  • Left chest, 5" x 5": 1500 x 1500 pixels
  • Top back, 12" x 4": 3600 x 1200 pixels
  • Neck label, 3" x 3": 900 x 900 pixels

Those are our print areas, and they are listed in full on the print placements guide. Build your canvas at the pixel dimensions above and the DPI question takes care of itself.

Why upscaling does not work

Enlarging a small file in Photoshop or an app that promises to increase resolution does not add real detail. It invents pixels by averaging the ones already there, or by guessing. Edges get soft and mushy, and areas of fine texture turn into smeared blobs. The printer reproduces exactly what you send, so an upscaled 800 pixel logo prints as a soft 800 pixel logo.

The fix is always the same: go back to the original source and export larger. Vector art exports at any size with no loss at all. If you only have a small raster file, redraw it.

File format: PNG with a transparent background

Send a PNG with a genuinely transparent background. That is the ideal format for DTG, and it is what we ask for.

Transparency matters because DTG prints only where there is artwork. Anywhere your file is transparent, the garment color shows through, which is what makes a printed graphic look like part of the shirt rather than a rectangle stuck onto it. A JPG cannot store transparency at all, so a JPG logo will print with a visible box of background color around it, even if that background looks white on your screen.

Two traps to check for:

  • A white background that looks transparent. Open the file over a dark colored layer in your editor. If you see a white rectangle, the background is white, not transparent, and it will print as white ink.
  • A checkerboard that got flattened. Exporting a PNG with the wrong setting can bake the background in. Always verify the exported file, not the working document.

Vector files like AI, EPS, SVG, and PDF are excellent source formats, but export a flattened high resolution PNG for submission so nothing shifts from a missing font or a linked image.

Why do printed colors look different from my screen?

Because your screen and the printer make color in opposite ways. A monitor emits light and mixes red, green, and blue to build color, which is RGB. A printer lays down physical ink on fabric, and ink absorbs light rather than emitting it.

Work in RGB and submit RGB files. Modern DTG systems, including the Kornit equipment we print on, have a wide color gamut and their software converts RGB to the ink set directly. Converting your file to CMYK yourself throws away color range before the printer ever sees it, and usually makes vivid colors duller than they needed to be.

Expect some shift regardless of what you do. The colors most likely to move:

  • Neon and fluorescent tones. Electric greens, hot pinks, and bright oranges glow on a backlit screen. No ink glows. They will print as strong but calmer versions.
  • Very deep blues and purples. These sit at the edge of the printable range and can read slightly darker or shifted toward the neighboring hue.

If exact color is critical to your brand, do not guess from a mockup. Order a sample of the actual garment and judge it in daylight. One sample resolves the question permanently.

How white behaves in your artwork

White is not the absence of ink. It is its own ink, and it is the most consequential color in your file.

On a white or light garment, pure white in your artwork can be printed as white ink or, depending on how the file is processed, left as bare fabric. Either way it looks white, so it rarely causes trouble.

On a dark garment, white areas print as real white ink and they will be bright and obvious. This is where sellers get surprised. A design with a subtle off white glow, a faint white halo around the logo, or a nearly transparent white background wash will show up on a black shirt as a visible gray or white cloud. It was invisible against your white canvas in the design app.

Always preview your artwork on a black background before you submit it. Anything you can see against black is going to print. If you want part of the design to be the garment color, that area must be fully transparent, not white and not 5 percent white.

Detail that breaks: small text, hairlines, and soft edges

Fabric is not paper. It has texture, and the ink spreads a fraction into the fibers. Detail below a certain threshold does not survive that.

Text and line weight

Keep body text large enough to hold up at final print size. Text that measures roughly a quarter inch tall or more stays clean. Anything smaller starts to fill in, especially with thin or high contrast serif fonts where the thin strokes disappear before the thick ones do.

Same goes for line art. Hairline strokes, one pixel outlines, and fine crosshatching thin out or break up. If your design depends on delicate linework, increase the stroke weight before you export. It will look heavier on screen and correct on fabric.

Drop shadows and gradients fading to transparent

A soft drop shadow or a gradient that fades from solid to nothing is rendered by the printer as a dithering pattern, tiny scattered dots that get sparser as the fade progresses. On paper you would never see them. On fabric, the tail end of a long soft fade can read as visible speckling or a faint dusty edge, particularly on dark garments where the white underbase makes those dots stand out.

You do not have to avoid gradients. Just keep the fades shorter and more deliberate, end them at a defined edge rather than trailing endlessly, and be cautious with large areas of very low opacity.

Sizing to the print area

Either build your file at the exact print area dimensions with the artwork positioned inside it, or crop the canvas tight to the artwork and tell us the intended print width. Both work. Be explicit either way, because ambiguous files are the most common cause of a print sitting smaller than expected.

The pre flight checklist

Run this before every upload. It takes two minutes and it prevents nearly every avoidable reprint.

  1. Pixel dimensions. Is the file at least 300 DPI at the final print size? Check the pixel width against the table above.
  2. Format. PNG, exported fresh, not a screenshot and not a file pulled off a website.
  3. Transparency. Place it over a black layer. Is the background genuinely see through?
  4. Stray white. Against that black layer, is there any unintended white haze, halo, or box?
  5. Edges. Zoom to 100 percent at print size. Are the edges crisp or soft and pixelated?
  6. Text. Is every piece of type large enough and heavy enough to read at actual size?
  7. Color mode. RGB, not CMYK.
  8. Flattened correctly. No missing fonts, no low resolution linked images inside the export.
  9. Rights. You own or are licensed to print everything in the file.

For our full specifications, including how each placement is measured, see the design guide. If you are still deciding how DTG compares to other methods, our post on what DTG printing is covers the process end to end.

What good file prep is actually worth

Clean files are not a technicality. They are a profit lever. Every blurry print is a refund, a replacement unit, a support conversation, and a review that follows the listing for a year.

It also compounds. Build a 3600 x 4800 pixel master template, design inside it, export PNG, and every future design starts correct by default.

Send clean files, get clean prints

Imperial prints in house on industrial Kornit direct to garment equipment in Miami, with no minimums and next business day shipping. Send a 300 DPI PNG and your order ships as your brand, with printed neck labels and retail ready packaging available.

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